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my specialty:12volt conversion kits for BMW /2 motorcycles

INSTALLING THE POWERDYNAMO (MZ-B)

12 VOLT CONVERSION KIT ON A 1966 BMW R69S

 

PowerDynamo parts layoutNow that the old generator and magneto have been removed, we can begin the installation of the PowerDynamo 12v conversion kit.

First, I suggest that you lay the contents of the kit box so that you can conveniently find the new parts you need as you install the PowerDynamo system.

Installing the cam on the engine camshaft:

camcam install

Locate the little silver cam and add a little lube (I used a smear of dielectric grease) around the base where it slips into the camshaft seal. Fasten the cam onto the engine camshaft nose. This cam has no purpose other than to replace the magneto rotor stub in the oil seal.

Installing the stator:

stator stator stator

engine gear caseThe new PowerDynamo stator comes assembled in the kit. To install it you must partially disassemble it, being careful not to damage any of the coil insulation. The photo on the left shows the assembled stator and attached wiring.

Free the stator coil from its base by unscrewing the thee Allen bolts as shown in the center photo. With the stator coil free you will now have access to the base plate mounting holes. Leave the stator coil loose with its wiring in place behind the base plate. This means you will have to "juggle" the stator coil a bit as you screw the base plate onto the engine gear case using the two holes that previously held the old generator field secure (shown in the photo to the right). It's all less tedious than it sounds, just be careful not to damage the stator coil insulation.

 

stator base stator base stator base

Attach the stator base plate assembly with the two 17mm countersunk screws found in the hardware package. The photo on the right shows the base plate mounting holes. Carefully position the stator base plate assembly as shown in the center photo with the black sensor at 2 o'clock, while guarding the loosely hanging stator coil from damage. Note in the first two photos above how the black stator coil wiring should be positioned. Secure the stator base plate to the engine case.

statorstator stator stator coil

Next we reinstall the stator coil back onto its base. Note in the photo (above far left) the center of the stator base has a raised lip. When you position the stator coil back onto the base take care to position the stator coil so that the raised lip fits inside the inner center opening of the stator coil so that the stator coil mounts flat against the base. In the second photo you can see the stator coil properly fitted over the raised lip of the base. The middle photo is a closer view. Hold the stator coil in position flat against the base and thread in the three hex screws and tighten. Double check this step-- if the stator coil is mounted lopsided it will likely touch and damage the rotor.

statorstatorrotorrotor

The left photo above shows the installed stator with its wiring (black) properly routed. The factory instructions say to attach the single white wire that exits the stator coil wiring harness to the ground at the left sensor screw. You can see this at the right arrow in the first photograph. Notice that in the second photo that our kit came with the white wire already attached to the sensor ground, so you likely only have to check that the securing screw is tight..

First, recheck that the "F" mark is still showing in the timing inspection window.

Add a little lube to the rotor. Note the shiny raised shiny pad on the side of the rotor, and slide the rotor onto the stator positioning the rotor so that the raised pad is just under the right edge of the sensor pickup on the black sensor at 2 o'clock. You will make a better adjustment in the next step.

sensorsensor diagramrotorsensor gap

offset checkNext move the unbolted rotor so the the left edge of the raised pad is positioned as shown in the center diagram: with about 1mm of the left edge just under edge of the sensor pickup--4.8mm back from the left edge of the sensor pick up. Be careful when moving the rotor not to move the engine crank and shift the "F" in the timing inspection window . Once you have the the rotor properly positioned, secure it with the supplied bolt and washer from the hardware package. We found the bolt from the factory was too long and bottomed out before the rotor was secure. The fix is to add an additional washer. In the kits I ship I plan to shorten this bolt to the proper length.

Next check the gap between the sensor pickup and the shiny raised plate on the rotor--should be .5mm. If need be, adjust the sensor gap by loosing the two holder screws and adjusting the unit. The factory instructions caution that the holder screws are loose at the time of delivery and even if the gap is correct, the holder screws must be tightened.

Finally, check that the sensor pickup is centered over the raised plate on the rotor. The sensor pickup will be misaligned outside the raised plate only if your bike has an incorrect crank, or you received the wrong rotor, both unlikely events.